I love pizza. Who doesn’t? But I don’t eat it all the time and to be honest often I make it at home since pizza for me has morphed into a toe dip into memory. Angeli pizza never got much respect from the critics but that’s okay, the customers loved it and we who worked there ate it everyday. Our pizza didn’t adhere to either the rigid orthodoxy of the Neapolitan style nor the more sour mother yeast informed pie that’s become popular these days. In 1984 when we opened 00 flour was impossible to find and since we had a very tight budget we opted for a beat up used gas oven rather than a custom built wood fired oven (the only kind available at the time). However we managed to make a pizza that many found addicting. The crust had just enough crunch to it and as your teeth bit through it they met a pliable softness that also allowed you to fold the slices if you wanted. The dough was soft and fragile which meant spare toppings. I miss it. Twenty seven years is a lot of pizza and it’s hard to compete with a template that deep. But I realize that it’s time for me to get over myself and just go out for an occasional snack so here’s the first of an extended pizza crawl. It’s also the first in a series that focuses on my general neighborhood.
Delicious Pizza is on Adams near Hauser in West Adams. I live in Mid-City just to the north and I must say it’s great to have another reason to drive south on Hauser instead of north. Delicious has gotten some press about the entertainment credentials of the owners Mick Ross of Delicious Vinyl and restauranteur-designer Fred Sutherland (Fred 62). Fred’s son Travis Sutherland is the chef. Travis fell down a rabbit hole of natural yeasted dough and Delicious Pizza is the result. I walked in just in time to see a crazy abundantly garnished Caesar Salad get plunked down on the counter for a happy looking couple. I was there to pick up a 12″ Yacht Club (tomato sauce, cheese, shallots, garlic, white anchovies topped with raw arugola). The large is a 16″.
the Yacht Club
Delicious is another new generation slice shop in a part of town that needs it. I’m not about the slice, more about the pie to-go. I happily waited for my order at the counter listening to Delicious tunes sipping my ice water graciously served to me by the counterman who made sure I didn’t get lost in the mix. The gentleman on the next stool started up a conversation about what a great addition Delicious is to the neighborhood. He also mentioned that he comes by in the morning for good coffee. They start pulling shots at 7am and stay open through 11pm although I’ve heard it’s earlier if the dough runs out.
Although I was determined to get the pie home in one piece I failed, managing to stuff a slice into my mouth while driving. It was good. The white anchovies were a surprise and it was a great combination, not too overloaded. If you prefer a loaded pizza ask for the supreme and you get an upgrade of fresh basil, more mozzarella and garlic. There was nicely spicy chile oil on the side as well as good quality crushed red peppers and grated cheese. (The nice counterman made sure it wasn’t forgotten.) This is a pizza for people who like a good sturdy chew without crispness. Not super thick but not thin-ish either, the naturally yeasted dough is a bit bread-like and is lightly baked. I’ll ask for mine to have a bit more char next time. The toppings are good, the sauce was fresh and light, but most importantly the place has a warm friendly vibe. Next time I’ll stick around for a beer and some of that Caesar Salad and I think I’ll try the Rosa (basil, shallots, garlic, mozzarella, ricotta, arugula) or the Varry White (mozzarella, fontina, ricotta, parmesan, pecorino romano)
