Opinion: Personal Patriotism

Evan Kleiman

I’ve been quiet on the newsletter front.  Really I haven’t known what to say at a time that every unthinking focus on deliciousness makes me flinch.  I wrote an essay right after the election but didn’t know if it was “appropriate” to share.  All these months later I still find it hard to focus on purely foodie centered stories and my twitter feed is like a whiplash between difficult social issues and yay, ice cream! (Not that there’s anything wrong with ice cream). So in order to move on I’m sharing that essay I’ve kept on ice until now. For a month after the election I slogged through each day…Continue reading »

Making Fig Jam

Evan Kleiman

making fig jam

This year’s fig output is rivaling the most bountiful zucchini harvest ever.  If like me you’re racing to scoop figs off the pavement before the summer sun turns your backyard into a fermentation zone it’s time to get on a ladder, pick everything that is nearly ripe and make some jam.  (Shoutout to Kate and friends for spending a couple of hours to clear the tree of fruit). Yes, I said nearly ripe.  By the time figs are ripe on the tree often they are so blown out that they are already fermenting.  Pick those too, but really go through your harvest and cull those that smell funky….Continue reading »

Bowl of Cooling Yogurt

Evan Kleiman

When it’s really hot and appetite flags a cooling bowl of yogurt can be all you need.  This combination, taken from the Persian kitchen is halfway between Mast-o-Khiar the cucumber-yogurt dip that accompanies many dishes and an Ash-e-Mast or yogurt soup. In my version I use full fat Indian yogurt from my local spice shop but any full fat yogurt without any additives will do.  Strauss yogurt is wonderful if you can find it.  Go full fat and your dish will have a lovely texture but also satisfy that heat induced peckish feeling. I throw a kitchen sink of crisp, cooling and flavorful ingredients into the yogurt.  There…Continue reading »